Gdansk, Poland

The Uphagen House, Gdansk

13.09.09 | by Robert | Comment?

The Uphagen House

The Uphagen House

The Uphagen House

Barcelona, Food, Spain

Four days of food in Barcelona

08.09.09 | by Robert | 1 Comment

Barcelona, dusk

Ah, there’s a lesson here – take more pictures and take more notes. And then write a post less than three months after sitting down to the meal. Yes, alas 80% of the food related fun we had in Barcelona has long since disappeared from memory – but from the few snaps and vague recollections that remain, a single post can still be saved!

The sheer amount of well regarded restaurants in Barcelona is a daunting prospect when planning a few days in the city – we used Chowhound and eGullet to narrow the choices down to:


Gresca

Gresca

Gresca is a small restaurant located in an inconspicuous, almost run down street in a random Barcelona city district. Inside, the narrow restaurant is all white and clean lines – this minimalism extends to the food, which made for some of the least inspiring pictures on my Flickr stream.

Despite the low key presentation, the food was probably the best of the whole trip – clean, fresh flavours made it the perfect place for a (relatively) light lunch. No, we can’t tell you much more than that – just look at the pictures and a big shiny four stars!

Gresca starstarstarstarstar_empty

Restaurant Moo

Restaurant Moo

Restaurant Moo

Restaurant Moo

Moo is the uber slick restaurant in the belly of the uber trendy and expensive Omm hotel. It is also a ‘product’ of the Roca brothers – the three owner/chefs of El Celler De Can Roca in Girona. We were lucky enough to visit Can Roca a couple of years ago and it remains probably the best food and wine experience of our lives – so we were keen to see how much of this was captured in this inner city incarnation.

Comparisons to Can Roca, however, are not really fair – as although the restaurant offers some of the more iconic Roca brother dishes, generally the experimentation is more subdued and the flavours far more conventional.

In terms of fine dining this well tried approach means that every dish, while not wildly exciting, was solid, well flavoured, beautifully presented and reasonable value for money… Its just a shame that it was ultimately fairly forgettable.

Moo starstarstarstarstar_empty

Cinc Sentits

Cinc Sentits is the restaurant dimmest in my memory – in part because it was our last fine dining stop, and in part because the camera was all but discarded for the meal… The only thing I remember is that they wouldn’t let us both get different wine pairings, and gave us a bit of a hard sell on the more expensive pairings. Our overall feeling was that the food was good though, so another hazy solid fours stars is in order.

Cinc Sentits starstarstarstarstar_empty

Tapac 24

Tapac 24

Tapac 24 is another restaurant with stellar heritage from the north of Barcelona. Here former El Bulli chef Carles Abellan serves up high end tapas with a slightly bumped up price to match. The queue runs up the stairs and out the door, but without reservations there is little choice but to wait and it moves pretty quickly.

On our first visit we arrived at around 11pm, grateful to find it open, but disappointed to find a couple of the signature dishes finished. In spite of this disappointment, we took a selection of the remaining options and had a good meal – not great, but really good and at a reasonable price. The only problem was the nagging feeling that a similar quality of food could be found in a dozen tapas bars across Barcelona at a lower price…

We were in the vicinity the next day, however, and decided to pop in to try one of the signature dishes – the truffle bikini. Two crispy rounds of toast containing ham, cheese and truffle shavings. It was good. But… it was a toasted cheese sandwich and I’ve made better at home, truffle or no truffle.

Our favourite dish here was probably the tomato bread – the cheap and ubiquitous ciabatta style bread drizzled in oil, and rubbed in garlic and fresh tomatoes, with a healthy does of salt. So simple, so effective. Overall, our last visit to Cal Pep was far more successful – but we can’t help but recommend a stop here, just thinking of that bread is making me hungry…

Tapac 24 starstarstarstarstar_empty

Barcelona beach

This was our first visit back to Barcelona after getting engaged there in 2008, and after such a perfect experience, perhaps we were wrong to go back – but this time around Barcelona itself seemed far less a magical, romantic place, but rather a slightly run down and unfriendly place… more of a big, grubby anonymous city than the charming warren of inviting side streets and cosy cafes that we remembered.

The food was excellent (albeit never truly great) and dozens of world class menu remain untried – but I expect it will be a while before we return to Barcelona.

Gdansk, Gdynia, Poland, Sopot

Summer in the Tricity

04.09.09 | by Robert | Comment?

To the beach and back on rollerblades

Coming from rain soaked Julys in Belfast, summer in the Tricity is a revelation. Long sunny evenings matched by long golden beaches can’t help but put a smile on our faces and make us wonder how we will cope with the scraps of sunshine that await next year when we have returned home.

A new hobby we’ve picked up in Poland is rollerblading – a popular pastime here thanks to the long stretches of cycle paths, including a brand new strip of smooth tarmac that hugs the coast from Brzeszno to Sopot. On one sunny morning we ‘bladed’ (is that what they call it?) the 7km from central Gdansk to Jelitkowo for the annual sand sculpture display and back again – even more impressive given we still lack the ability to stop without assistance from helpful lamp posts and friendly trees.

Sand Sculptures

Another summer indulgence that can’t be missed in the Tricity is the ice cream – we’ll really miss wandering into the Old Town in the evening to grab a cone of the fantastic vanilla and chocolate mieszane (’mix’) cones. I’m not sure if these are a Tricity, Polish, or even Central/Eastern European blend of icecream, but the tight swirls of rich vanilla cream and nutty chocolate make the British ‘99′ seem a bland way to cool down.

Fantastic icecream

I’m yet to capture an adequate shot of the beach on the Bay of Gdansk, but the 10 mile stretch of sand that borders Gdansk, Sopot and Gdynia is the Tricity’s best asset. Town planners have been smart enough to preserve a 500m strip of green belt between the sea and the city to make a trip to the beach feel like a real escape from city life – while only a few Zloty away on the tram.

The areas nearest the tram stops become crowded throngs of of bronzed young people and families, the sheer length of the beach means there is always somewhere quiet to relax and watch the boats in the bay. Take your pick as to which view you would prefer!

Another day at the beach

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